Together with the Nordic Fashion Association and the Danish Fashion Institute, I would like to welcome you all to the fourth edition of the Copenhagen Fashion Summit.

As patron, I am proud of how the event has grown in size and importance since its first edition, in 2009.

Today Copenhagen Fashion Summit, 7 years later, is seen by some as the “Davos for the fashion industry”.  It has become a global gathering of influential decision-makers in fashion, business and politics. Participants from all over the world come to engage in the crucial discussion about the evolution of the industry and the need for new business models to tackle the growing environmental and social footprint it leaves across the globe.

Ever since the Summits inception, the vision of a sustainable global fashion industry has guided the ambitious work of the organisers to create a movement and a call for action for the entire industry. And not just an event that happens every two years in Copenhagen.

This year in the lead up to the Summit, the interest from a vast array of stakeholders has increased. For the first time, all available entry passes were sold out prior to the event. More space was allocated and today we are 1,240 people gathered from 52 countries - that’s impressive. This interest and commitment reflects the global importance of the Summits vision and the will to contribute to that vision - the ‘movement’ has been created.  And important partnerships such as; alliances with the Sustainable Apparel Coalition and Planet Textiles have reinforced Copenhagen as the hub for sustainability in fashion.

Welcome to Copenhagen Fashion Summit 2016.  Welcome to Copenhagen.

In September last year, the new Sustainable Development Agenda was unanimously adopted by the 193 Member States of the United Nations. Today, we have 17 Sustainable Development Goals that provide the blueprint for the world’s development agenda and will guide us through to 2030.

It is a broad, universal agenda to end poverty, fight inequality and protect the environment.  In order to achieve real and sustainable change it will require active participation of all sectors of society and all types of people.

Now the fashion industry is not just one of the most resource-intensive industries in the world, it is also one of the most labour-intensive industries.  Sustainability in the industry has primarily been driven by economic interests.  However today, the environmental and social aspects of the industry are also seen as crucial factors in moving towards a sustainable fashion industry, and one that can also contribute to the achievement of the world’s development agenda.

Looking at the social aspects of the industry, as many as 75 million people worldwide are employed, which is – and historically always has been – one of the most female-dominated industries in the world. 

In fact, it is estimated that approximately 75% of garment workers are women. 

As a vocal and passionate voice for the empowerment of women and girls and the protection and respect of their human rights, I would like to focus briefly on this particular aspect of the industry.

For most women in the garment industry, their job can mean survival and provide hope of a better future for themselves and their children. However the unattractive reality for many means; excessive hours, unsafe working conditions and wages that are not enough to make ends meet.  

Other issues that women face, and this is far from an exhaustive list, are:

• Harassment and verbal and physical abuse at work
• Lack of legal protection – few have contracts and the vast majority have no maternity leave or health coverage.  There is also a strong fear of dismissal if workers complain or make reasonable demands.
• An imbalance in power between workers and managers - in many cultures where the textile industry is large, there exists a wide gap in gender equality and with the vast majority of managers being men, the workers - women - are often without a voice. 

These issues clearly demonstrate inequality and a lack of respect and recognition of women’s rights. The SDG’s recognise women and girls as critical drivers of development.  And the achievement of gender equality and the empowerment of women and girls (Goal 5) is seen as fundamental to achieving progress across all 17 goals.

In other words, the most important driving force behind economic growth and the fight against poverty is achieving equal opportunities for girls and women.

This is also the central theme of the global conference on women’s rights, health and well-being, Women Deliver, that will be held in Copenhagen next week – here the focus will be on how we ensure that the new SDG’s are delivered and that they become a reality in the lives of girls and women around the world.  In short, how do we make the world a better place for all.

We know that Fashion and its stakeholders have the power to create change and there is no doubt, that women are a valuable resource.  When we invest in women, they create positive return.  Not only in the form of productivity and loyalty to their employers but, also in terms of families and communities.

An example from another sector but, nonetheless a producer, is the Danish company Orana (fruit extract), which changed the hours in their working week, in order to ensure employees a better work-life balance.

Instead of working late Monday to Saturday, as is the norm in Vietnam, employees at Orana work Monday to Friday, from 7.30am – 4pm. This means that Orana’s employees are able to pick up their children from kindergarten and keep them at home.  Whereas many Vietnamese families, with two working parents, have to send their children to live with their grandparents.  Initiatives like this make it possible for women to work, and is an important model for the inclusion of women in the labour-force, in a sustainable way. For Orana, the change has resulted in happier and more loyal employees, and ‑ a more effective factory.

We are seeing positive progress on many fronts and there exists many concrete initiatives in the fashion and textile industry that are focused on the empowerment of women. And with the large majority of workers in the fashion industry being women, we cannot consider sustainability without them as part of the solution. The industry must identify and implement actions that secure women’s rights and provide equitable and fair working conditions and environments.   

We all hold a responsibility to rethink the fashion industry; some in respect to the social aspects, others the environmental and others the economical aspects, but it must be done together. The evolution of the fashion industry will require new business models that incorporate all of these aspects, in order to tackle the growing environmental and social footprint it leaves behind.

Responsible Innovation is the over-arching theme for this edition of the Copenhagen Fashion Summit. How can the industry develop and improve the way it functions? What business models and solutions are needed to meet the growing sustainability challenges the industry faces?  How can we accelerate responsibly the much needed change?

Gathered at this Summit is a huge amount of expertise, knowledge, know-how, experience and a strong will to continue to strive for the answers to these – and many more – questions.

Together, we have the power to create a brighter future for the fashion industry – to create a plan of action for people, planet and prosperity.

Thank you.